A forkful of Italy: Portofino to Milan
Where to stay, snack and sip
Where I Stayed in Santa Margherita
Hotel Imperiale — Classic, convenient, and right in the mix.
Eight Hotel — A chic little spot halfway between Santa Margherita and Portofino. If you’re split between the two, this is your middle ground.
Where to Eat + Drink
Santa Margherita:
L’Altro Eden for dinner. BUT FIRST go to Tortuga (next door) for an aperitif. It’s a true local hang.
Da Ö Batti (Santa Margherita or Portofino) — Order their signature dish. I don’t say this lightly: it was unlike anything I’ve ever tasted.
Gluten-free options. Salted caramel pancetta is a non-negotiable… it was life-changing.Capo Nord — Dreamy seaside spot.
Bar Pasticceria Oneto Santa Margherita Ligure — if you have a sweet tooth like me then going to the best pastry shop is a must.
Paraggi Beach: (In between the two) You cannot go wrong with any of these spots. I recommend getting a beach bed and eating your way around Paraggi Beach.
Langosteria Paraggi — Shrimp gnocchi is elite. Order and don’t share.
Eight Restaurant (at Eight Hotel Paraggi) — Traditional Ligurian cuisine
Le Carillon (Bagni Le Carillon)
Portofino:
Il Gemelli —We went at lunch to ask for a front-row seat around 8 PM. Twin brothers run it… Famous for Nonna’s pomodoro sauce.
Dav Mare in Portofino — They have a vodka-sauce pasta that might ruin all other vodka sauces for you.
Oca Bianca — Tucked in the center of Santa Margherita. Lowkey, local, and legit.
Drinks at Belmond Splendido — The piano player, the view, the vibe. They’re picky at the door, but it’s worth begging your way in.
Coffee at Bar Morena in Portofino — Order a Shakerato. Local-approved, icy perfection.
Vesta or L’Angolo 48 — Both perfect for a buzzy dinner. Vesta for more scene, Angolo for cozy energy.
If You’re Headed to Milan After…
Quick hits:
Trattoria Torre de Pisa— a locals hot spot and one of the best meals I had during my trip. Flooded with all the Italian business men and what seemed to be the cool students on their lunch break.
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone — Classic courtyard lunch.
Da Giacomo — Elegant, old-school Milan
Antica Trattoria della Pesa — Best veal Milanese in town. Period.